How to Repair a Stripped Screw Hole with a Hardwood Dowel
Repair a more substantially worn screw hole in sound solid wood by drilling it to a controlled diameter and gluing in a fitted hardwood dowel. A more involved alternative to the toothpick method, for lightweight fittings only.
For a small screw hole with only minor wear, try How to Repair a Small Stripped Screw Hole with Toothpicks instead.
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Step 01 / 05
Check the wood and remove the loose screw
Remove the fitting and screw with the correct screwdriver. Check that the timber is sound, dry and not rotten, split or crumbling. A glued dowel repair is suitable for a small light-duty fitting in solid wood, not a handrail, a door's load-bearing hinge or any safety-critical fastening. If the screw passes through thin board, is close to an edge or the panel is veneered/chipboard, choose a fixing method specified for that material or ask a professional. Keep the fitting and original screw for measuring.
1. Check the wood and remove the loose screw
Instructional illustration generated with AI for Howmigo. Remove the fitting and screw with the correct screwdriver. Check that the timber is sound, dry and not rotten, split or crumbling. A glued dowel repair is suitable for a small light-duty fitting in solid wood, not a handrail, a door's load-bearing hinge or any safety-critical fastening. If the screw passes through thin board, is close to an edge or the panel is veneered/chipboard, choose a fixing method specified for that material or ask a professional. Keep the fitting and original screw for measuring.
2. Measure and prepare a clean dowel-sized hole
Instructional illustration generated with AI for Howmigo. Choose a straight hardwood dowel just wider than the damaged screw hole, with enough sound wood around it. Mark and carefully drill a straight, round hole to the dowel's actual diameter, using a wood bit and depth stop. Protect the opposite side of the workpiece: never drill through a thin panel by accident. Clamp portable work securely, wear eye protection, and keep hands clear of the bit. Stop if you reach a void, split, concealed fixing or unexpected material. Remove loose shavings and dry-fit the dowel; it should be snug without force or splitting the wood.
3. Glue the hardwood dowel into place
Instructional illustration generated with AI for Howmigo. Remove the dry-fitted dowel. Apply wood glue rated for the timber and intended conditions to the sides of the hole and the dowel, following the glue maker's instructions. Press the dowel in so it seats fully without excessive force; align the grain where practical. Wipe away squeeze-out with a cloth. Do not load or redrill the repair until the adhesive has cured for the time and conditions specified on its label.
4. Trim and smooth the cured repair
Instructional illustration generated with AI for Howmigo. Once the glue has fully cured, cut any protruding dowel flush with a fine-tooth saw. Support the surrounding finish with a protective shim if necessary and sand lightly in the direction of the wood grain. Avoid removing sound surrounding wood or damaging the fitting's seating surface. Check that the dowel is solid, flush and free of cracks; if it lifts, spins or splits, stop and redo the repair rather than mounting hardware.
For more guidance on gently smoothing the cured dowel, see How to Sand Wood by Hand.5. Drill a new pilot hole and refit the fitting
Instructional illustration generated with AI for Howmigo. Mark the screw location in the centre of the repaired dowel. Choose the pilot-bit diameter for the screw's root diameter and the wood species, using screw manufacturer guidance; avoid a hole as wide as the screw's outer threads. Drill straight with a depth stop, keeping within the sound timber and away from any concealed services or the back face. Reposition the lightweight fitting and drive the correct wood screw by hand until snug; do not overtighten. Check it holds firmly under only its intended light-duty use. If it turns freely again or the wood splits, do not use the fixing.
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